DUBAI: “Moors & Saints” is the brainchild of the Moroccan visual artist and designer Chama Mechtaly. This fine jewelry line not only draws inspiration from sacred architecture, and its message is more than skin-deep, in light of the current political climate surrounding migration.
“For the last few years, we have been witnessing the rise of nationalism and anti-immigrant rhetoric all over the world,” the UAE-based designer told Arab News during her brand’s debut at this year’s edition of Dubai Design Week. “I was thinking, ‘How can I communicate my values as an artist and a human being, who is really interested in connecting minds and hearts, and translate those values into a brand that connects really well with the local community in Dubai?’ (I wanted) to find some kind of universal language that started somewhere and traveled across the world, affecting the lives of different communities, and so Moorish design popped up.”
The brand is Renowned for its repetitive geometric patterns. (Supplied)
Renowned for its repetitive geometric patterns, glazed tiles and majestic arches, the history of Moorish design dates back to the 11th century, flourishing mainly in North Africa and Andalusia, but spreading as far as Latin America and Southeast Asia.
“If you look at the context of massive, powerful Muslim civilizations like Andalusia, the Mogul Empire, or the Fatimid Dynasty in Cairo, they were only able to become powerful because they weaved and included different communities, including Jews, Christians, and Hindus,” Mechtaly, who holds a degree in international relations and conflict resolution, noted.
The history of Moorish design dates back to the 11th century. (Supplied)
Growing up in Morocco, Mechtaly was inspired by the fascinating visual language that dominates the country’s diverse ecosystem of mosques, synagogues, palaces, and universities. “Craftsmanship, art, and design are very much part of our identity, not just myself and my family — but, really, every Moroccan,” she said.
“Moors & Saints” launched in September with three elegant collections named after historical cities that are home to Moorish design — Granada, Marrakesh, and Cairo. Handmade in Dubai, all of the designed pieces are manufactured in either silver or 18-carat gold, and come in a range of earrings, rings, bracelets, and necklaces, with cufflinks available for men as well.
The first collection that Mechtaly started designing was Granada. It is specifically inspired by the architecture of the famous Alhambra Palace — a fortress built during the Nasrid Dynasty in the 9th century.
“Moors & Saints” launched in September with three elegant collections named after historical cities that are home to Moorish design — Granada, Marrakesh, and Cairo. (Supplied)
“Alhambra was built in the spirit of ‘convivencia’ — Jews, Muslims, and Christians benefiting from each other, sharing knowledge and really creating together,” Mechtaly said. “I believe that it really connects with the story of the UAE, welcoming ethnicities and nationalities from all over the world to thrive here and create an environment of cross-cultural exchange.”
The octagonal star that can be seen on the walls of the palace takes center stage in the Granada collection, along with an Arabic translation of the Nasrid mantra: “There is no victor but God,” which is carefully engraved on a pair of earrings topped off with a red pearl, a nod to the palace’s iconic color.
Going south towards North Africa, the Cairo collection features architectural elements of the Egyptian capital’s Alazhar Mosque, erected under the patronage of the Fatimid rulers.
The feminine Marrakesh collection draws inspiration from the city’s popular ‘zellij’ glazed tiles. (Supplied)
Some might be surprised to see the six-pointed Seal of Solomon — which one strictly associates with Israel and the Jewish people — in the collection’s pieces. However, this ancient, much-used symbol is actually a feature of several Islamic spiritual sites, including the Alazhar Mosque. Mechtaly explained: “What I’m trying to promote is that this symbol has been shared for centuries (among) different civilizations, whether Hindu, Muslim, Christian, (or) Jewish.”
Meanwhile, the feminine Marrakesh collection draws inspiration from the city’s popular ‘zellij’ glazed tiles — particularly those found in the burial sites of the 16th-century Saadi Dynasty. The collection is noticeably rosy-toned; an homage to the city’s colorful exteriors.
Mechtaly was inspired by the fascinating visual language that dominates Morocco diverse ecosystem of mosques, synagogues, palaces, and universities. (Supplied)
The up-and-coming designer hopes her creations convey her message of tolerance and symbolize historical depth.
“I want people to know that they’re carrying a piece of heritage and history that dates back for centuries and has been affected by and inspiring people from across the globe,” she says, “no matter what their skin color, religion, or origins.”
