MUMBAI: In the foothills of the Himalayas in the north of India lies something of an oddity. A small picturesque town that takes its name from Llanddowror — a remote village in Wales.
Landour is a two-hour drive from Dehradun airport, and is very close to one of India’s most famous hill stations, Mussoorie. And Landour is the quintessential ‘town where time stood still.’
In 1827, when the British Army built a sanatorium, Landour became a cantonment area. With its crisp mountain air, beautiful views and friendly locals it was ideal. It’s a place that has perfected what the Italians call dolce far niente (the sweetness of doing nothing.)
Landour’s cozy teahouses, heavenly churches, gabled bungalows and Main Mall Road are best discovered on foot, so pack sturdy footwear. More adventurous travellers can plan a hike from Landour to Lal Tibba (Red Hill) — the highest point of close-by Mussoorie. The relaxing songs of birds will greet you as you walk with pine, oak and deodar trees as your companions.
For all its winding roads, you should never worry about getting lost in Landour as they all seem to lead back to each other; plus the town-proud locals are happy to act as tour guides. And while the summer months are definitely the best time to visit Landour, it is beautiful all year round, as long as you wrap up warm.
Many of its bungalows take their names from the works of the Scottish writer and historian Sir Walter Scott — be it Kenilworth, Ivanhoe or Woodstock (now one of India’s most prestigious boarding schools). It is also home to one of India’s favorite authors, Ruskin Bond, and actor Victor Banerjee (of “Passage to India” fame) is among those who have made this town home.
Landour’s residents are, understandably, fiercely protective of their gorgeous town, and it’s not easy to buy a home here, but thankfully there are many welcoming homestay options. The fanciest place to stay is Rokeby Manor, built in 1840. Today, it is a charming boutique hotel, with its own salon and spa just a short drive away from the main property. The Manor’s restaurant, Emily’s, serves up one of the most decadent caramel puddings in India, but if its local fare you want, they are happy to put together a Ghar Ka Thali (a set meal of dishes from the region) too.
The town is home to several notable churches, including Kellogg’s Church, which was constructed as an American Presbyterian church in 1903 and was also the base for Landour Language School where the British were taught Hindi. A language school still operates from there. Then there is the British-built St Paul’s Church, which dates back to 1839, and was built for the use of soldiers convalescing in the area.
Tea is a must when in Landour. In Sister’s Bazaar (where the sisters who staffed the sanatorium lived) you will find Landour Bakehouse. A notice reading, “We do not have Wifi. Talk To Each Other. Pretend It’s 1895,” has pride of place on its main wall. The bakery uses century-old recipes that date back to the days of the British: its candy, scones, buns and hot chocolate are worth every calorie, and you can always walk it off afterwards.
Right next to the bakery is Prakash Stores, renowned for its homemade jams and butters. India’s first Prime Minster Jawaharlal Nehru reportedly used to buy his cheese and jams there.
A short walk from there is Char Dukan (which literally translates into “Four Stores”), which houses several more local stores and eateries.
If you’re looking for a more-structured visit, head to the main market and find Mussoorie Heritage Centre — a historic building that is home to an antiques store — and book yourself on one of the guided heritage walks.
But do remember that the whole point of going to Landour is to lose yourself in life’s simple joys.
