DUBAI: Located a stone’s throw from Zaitunay Bay, it’s hard to fault the Four Seasons Beirut. It may lack the history and grandeur of the Phoenicia, or the boutique elegance of Achrafieh’s Hotel Albergo, but there’s a certain charm to its modernist design and the warmth of its welcome.
The Four Seasons is one of those hotels that seduces you in subtle ways. The sense of wellness, the remembering of your name, the plumpness of the pillows, the fluffiness of the bread. But it also has sea, mountain and city views to die for.
It is on the hotel’s rooftop, with its pool and bar and 26th-storey view, that the enviable nature of its location becomes apparent. Near-panoramic views prevail. To the front is the Mediterranean, to the right is the city’s main port, while to the left is Zaitunay Bay and its strip of restaurants and self-contained promenade. Further along is the old Saint-George Hotel, designed in the 1920s by Parisian architect Auguste Perret and now little more than a shell.
To the rear is the rejuvenated Downtown, with its sandblasted stone, designer stores, and sanitized version of Beirut. In the distance is the giant blue dome of the Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque and its soaring minarets, next to which lies Martyrs’ Square. The vibrant neighborhoods of Gemmayze and Achrafieh are not far away, either. Much of the rest of the city clings to the sides of mountains that roll down towards the sea.
On a February afternoon the view from our terrace is spectacular. Snowcapped mountains, blue Mediterranean sea — the epitome of the Lebanese dream. It is this view, along with Zaitunay Bay and a patch of unused land lying immediately in front of the hotel, that defines our trip. It’s what fills our field of vision throughout breakfast at The Grill or drinks at The Bar & Lounge. It is what we gaze at during long conversations on the terrace — a deep, vibrant blue complemented by Beirut’s haphazard skyline.
It is, however, the food and service that proves the most memorable. In the Lobby Lounge, at breakfast and dinner, and throughout the daily interactions with reception and housekeeping, the professionalism and amiability of the staff is impeccable. Nowhere is this truer than at The Grill, the second-floor restaurant where we have breakfast and dine on one of our two nights.
Breakfast at The Grill is a sedate affair compared with many other hotels in the city. There’s no giant, all-encompassing buffet or live food station, just food of the highest quality that’s cooked to order and served directly to your table. That means dishes such as shakshuka or scrambled eggs with awarma, eggs Benedict, or smoked salmon with capers, chives and cream cheese. There are even Belgian waffles, French toast, and steak with eggs and hash browns.
There’s a small buffet, too, serving cold items such as fruits, cheeses, salads and homemade artisanal bread, but the simple, unimposing highlight was the selection of Lebanese dips, cheeses and mini manakeesh brought to our table. The lahm bi ajeen and cheese manakeesh were so fresh, so mouthwateringly delicious, that a plate of those would easily have sufficed.
The Grill is adjacent to The Bar & Lounge, with The Bar’s red-velvet chairs, tasseled chandeliers and wooden ceiling panels a plush and exuberant departure from the hotel’s otherwise understated interior. The main lobby is defined by marble floors, inlaid black-marble check-in desks, large rugs, and cream leather armchairs, while the comfortable and spacious rooms are decorated in warm tones and feature full marble bathrooms. Here and there are flourishes of gold.
Outside, standing on the corner of Wafik Sinno in Minet El Hosn, you realize that the best parts of Beirut are on your doorstep. As locations go, it’s hard to beat.
THE LOWDOWN
Where: Four Seasons Beirut, Minet El Hosn
Price: From $344
Contact: +961 1 761 000
Website: www.fourseasons.com/beirut
